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simple is beautiful
The Sartorialist: May 2008
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Friday, 30 May 2008Wednesday, 28 May 2008On the Street....Espadrilles, NYC Espadrilles - I wore them in the 80's but not since. Does anyone wear them anymore? Am I missing out on a great Summer footwear option? I just remember them falling off my foot all the time. I think they look great in this photo and it makes me reconsider the concept but if I had to choose between my Converse and espadrilles I would still lean toward the Converse. Help me out and let me hear the pro side to espadrilles. Tuesday, 27 May 2008On the Street....Spring Flannels, NYC A rare sighting of the "Spring flannel" was reported in West Chelsea recently. Thought to be almost extinct, Spring flannel pants still make perfect sense in the unsettled weather of April and May. Friday, 23 May 2008Thursday, 22 May 2008Style Profile...Sohiny Das, New Delhi  Sohiny Das Job? I am a fashion designer and a freelance stylist, and I am trying to dabble in a bit of fashion journalism here in India. Best Sartorial advice from your parents? 'Subtle is best'. Style icons No one in particular, but I admire many. Describe your personal style More like permutation and combination of limited items, and I try to wear them in a different way every time. I don't think much about what to wear..and that is why the result is a grunge-ethno-preppy mish mash. I build my daily look around My schedule for the day..generally a big bag with spare shoes and some make-up, just in case there's an unplanned change. Personal Style quirk Oversized items, and menswear. Favorite designers Madeline Vionnet, Nicholas Ghesquire, Issey Miyake, Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Anamika Khanna. Most cherished item A black dress by Ghost- it is a miracle versatile dress that was made for me- I believe. I feel best wearing? Anything loose and slouchy. The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist's outfit ... Combination and comfort level. I always break this fashion rule. Blend with the trend. I never break this fashion rule. Wear it with a sense of humor. Never caught wearing? I think I've worn them all...disaster or not. Most underrated item in menswear/womenswear? The plain-Jane grey/ black top that goes with everything, and can be teamed up in every possible way. Dress to impress who? The mirror, mostly. And my boss..sometimes. It helps. Shine your own shoes? No point when you are walking about in India. Favorite stores? Flea markets and vintage stores. Your next "must have" purchase? Orange Lipstick, and Yellow eyeshadow. I only buy __________ in Europe. Lots of jackets..when I lived there. I skimp when buying ... Everyday office-wear. No point, in this weather. And dust. I splurge on..... Quality inner wear. Very fussy. Favorite item of clothing Right now- tapered dark Indigo jeans..not very tight and with a front pleat. Casual, semi formal, dressy. Guilty pleasure No guilt in pleasures. Cologne, skincare? Dior Addict, Body Shop Tea Tree Range. Most stylish city (Milan, Paris, London, New York, other) I have only been to London among the ones mentioned...and yes, people there have very good aesthetics mostly. I like the result of the multicultural mix in the sensibilities, and the fact that the city has something for anyone-from anywhere. When I was high school I wore? My own creation- a disaster haircut, and mighty smug about it. Sports? Rowing, Badminton. Favorite fashion magazine? Spot and Street, Tank, ID..and I only saw a couple of issues of 'Rubbish'. Favorite vacation spot? Anywhere, as long as I am with my friends. If on my own, then London. Favorite neighborhood restaurant? Leopold's and Mondegar in Mumbai for relaxed unpretentious let-your-hair-down ambience. On the Street...Navy Trench, Paris I hate that it's past Mid-May and I could still wear a great look like this in NYC right now. Wednesday, 21 May 2008On the Street...Dresses That (go to) Work, part 2 This whole look is made by the fact that it fits her sooo perfectly at the waist and ribcage. click on the image for a larger (and better) view A Closer Look  I am currently in full-on Spring shopping mode. Whenever that happens I usually start the process by looking at my photos from the previous year and seeing what ideas I want to pull forward. This time ,while I was reviewing old images, I found this side view of one of my favorite Summer shots. Even though this is a simple look it's brilliantly executed and actually brings up several interesting issues regarding menswear. First, the half-tuck shirt. Very difficult to execute Do you just tuck a tiny bit above the belt buckle? Do you go for a full-frontal tuck as Mr. Cortina as done here? I think that how the back of the shirt hangs in more important than the method of front tuckage. The length of the shirt has to be short enough so you dont have a ton of fabric folded up back there. Polos are usually a safe option for the half-tuck. In the Summer I will usually only do a half-tuck if I am wearing a jacket so only the front can be seen. The half-tuck is undeniably comfortable and casual but loaded with so many obstacles. Second, waistband rolling. Apparently designers and manufactures think all men huge enormous butts. I always have so much extra room in the back leg panel of my pants that it is really hard to make khakis look even remotely sexy. I guess it is true that you never hear I guy asking "Do these Dockers make my butt look hot?" When I have pants altered, the tailor will often bring up the back panels a little bit at the waistband in a similar way that he will remove a roll on the back of a sportcoat. On a jacket it is called "dropping the collar" or ,in this situation, I guess it is called "dropping the waistband" Again rolling the waistband is something i do often but only in the back half of the waistband and only when i am wearing a jacket or coat. (often the inner waistband fabric doesn't blend with the fashion fabric, so you would only want to roll the back half anyway) Third, two inch pant cuff Dramatic, formal and yet sporty. The wider cuff just feels more sturdy than a standard cuff width. Fourth, Italian pant length I am sure it will change someday (thats fashion) but right at or slightly above the ankle still looks good to me, especially for casual Summer pants. Fifth, those half-sock/footie things to wear with dress shoes in the Summer for a "no sock" look. Personally most of the ones I have tried have been very flimsy and never work well. This Summer I am going with Nike "no show" running socks or soft suede loafers that are much more comfortable to wear in the heat than hard leather shoes. I bet you didn't think I could get five issues out of this look. Tuesday, 20 May 2008Next Week....London!
I understand that since London is in a different hemisphere than New York that it is already Summer in London!
I can't wait to shoot some of the famous London Sun Bunnies! or at least run into some of the Top Gear guys. Monday, 19 May 2008Style Profile...Michael Arenella Michael Arenella Job? Musician, Singer, Orchestra Leader (www.dreamlandorchestra.com) Best Sartorial advice from your parents? I went to Catholic School as a young boy, and on the "Out Of Uniform Day", my mom did me up right. She was very imaginative and tasteful, and showed me that color and panache could work on boys, too, and at no sacrifice to their toughness. Style icons Max Linder (French silent film actor, 1883 - 1925, known as "The Man In The Silk Hat") Harlem musicians in the '30s Cary Grant Describe your personal style Jazz Age through French Resistance I build my daily look around? Where I'm playing that day or evening. Personal Style quirk I wear sock garters Favorite designers I’m into old stuff. Most cherished item My 1925 Studebaker I feel best wearing? Cap, goggles, gloves and a linen duster I never break this fashion rule. Tuck in your shirt Never caught wearing? Pajamas Most underrated item in menswear/ womenswear? Menswear- the hat Women - the dress Dress to impress who? Nobody Shine your own shoes? Yes Shoetrees? Yes Favorite stores? Flea Markets and EBay Your next "must have" purchase? 3-piece cream linen bespoke suit I only buy __________ in Europe. Cuban cigars I splurge on..... Dry cleaning Favorite item of clothing Straw Boater with a Chartreuse band Guilty pleasure Afternoon drinks Cologne, skincare? Bay Rum cologne, any brand When I was high school I wore? Khakis, Oxford shirts, canvas shoes Favorite fashion magazine? Apparel Arts (Apparel Artists the de facto magazine of record for men's clothing in the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s) Favorite vacation spot? Canoeing the New York Harbor (really) Favorite neighborhood restaurant? Sam’s Restaurant and Pizzeria 238 Court St, Cobble Hill, Brooklyn (between Baltic and Kane Sts, Cobble Hill, Brooklyn) Cantarelli Reversible Sportcoat While I was at Pitti this past January was intrigued by this reversible sportcoat by Cantarelli. I think it is in-store at Bergdorf and Neimans right now. I'm still undecided about the concept of a reversible jacket but ,at least here, the execution of the jacket is very good. Makes me seriously consider trying one out. Friday, 16 May 2008Thursday, 15 May 2008Style Profile...Renata Molho, Milan  Renata Molho Job? Journalist/ writer Best Sartorial advice from your parents? Keep straight! Do not deceive yourself and: the material makes the difference. Style Icons? Its difficult to say: from Jeanne Moreau or Juliette Greco to the simplest African or Indian woman met by hasard. If I have to choose one clear now is Jane Birkin. Describe your personal style? Emotional, eclectic, not conformist, displaced, stateless I build my daily look around? My mood Personal Style quirks? Instinct: it's like drawing or painting, if you have some material in front of you, you just put shapes and colors together and a sort of harmony comes out. Most cherished item Coats and pullovers!!!!!! I feel best wearing? Coats pullovers and special evening dress The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist’s outfit ... If it fits with the figure and the face… if its original to gain a place on the Sartorialist or because it responds to a sort of authentic eccentricity. I always break this fashion rule. Elegant- elegant Beautiful- beautiful Clever- clever etc. I do not like symmetrical combinations. I never break this fashion rule. Not too many beautiful things together: one particular element and the rest must be something cooler, silent and respectful like a frame in a picture. Never caught wearing? Already Fashionable things, in the meaning of trendy. Most underrated item in menswear/womenswear? Gloves Dress to impress who? Myself: in the meaning that dressing for me is just a way to share the space with others, so sometimes I feel like giving a strong contribute to the picture, and sometimes I just need to be transparent, to pass through without making any noise. But it’s always referred to my mood in relation to the others. Shine your own shoes? Never I skimp when buying ... I do not know: I don’t have items, I have different periods: or I become mystic and don’t by anything or I buy everything I meet and I can afford. I splurge on..... Bags and jewels bijoux etc. Guilty pleasure? To buy two of what I like. Cologne, skincare? Mainly Clinique for the skin and Guerlain mixed with something else for perfume. Most stylish city? Berlin, Paris When I was high school I wore? Very conformist and bourgeoisie. Sports? Swim, tennis, playing cards. Favorite vacation spots? Instinctive answer: Istanbul, Terschelling(Holland), Ramatuelle, Baratti. Wednesday, 14 May 2008Tuesday, 13 May 2008Style Profile...Dario Spadea Pandolfi, Milan  Dario Spadea Pandolfi Job? Cesare Attolini Executive Best Sartorial advice from your parents? My grand father and my father says always: “The elegance is something that must be whispered and not shouted…” Style icons? If in the past, men like Duke of Windsor, Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, the Kennedy or Giovanni Agnelli set the trands in matter of elegance. The trendsetters of today are the international designers and young actors and artists. Think about the architect Rem Koolhaas, or Jeremy Irons, mixed with the street rappers. Many of them are propositional toward a new and intelligent way of dressing that needs to be elaborated and customized in the details…and go on, the new dandy people like Manfredi Della Gherardesca or the young generation from good and noble family like Raphael Abascal Medina Duke of Feria who has attitude and elegance since they were born…or people from fashion system like Mario Sorrenti. Describe your personal style Sunglasses: Persol Shirts: Cesare Attolini Polo shirts: Lacoste Knitwear: Cashmere made in Scotland Denim jeans: Levi’s 501 col. White or denim. Jacket: Cesare Attolini Suit: Cesare Attolini Watches: Omega or Swatch Umbrella: Mario Talarico - Napoli Gloves: Mario Portolano - Napoli Shoes: Churc’s, John Lobb, Alden, Car shoes Fashion shoes: YSL Sport shoes: New Balance, Nike I build my daily look around? My humor Personal Style quirk? A touch of navy blue Most cherished item? Travel luggage set by Goyard – Paris I feel best wearing? A Cesare Attolini suit! The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist?s outfit ... How they match the colors and the proportion of the items they are wearing. I always break this fashion rule. The birth of fashion stylist and designers in the 80s and 90s had totally changed the way of thinking: Fashion shows started to set the rules, men became more “fashionist”. It’s not like that anymore. I seem to feel embarrassed in wearing fashion clothes; I claim my own role, reviving the value of men’s clothing embellished by personal researches, never banal nor ridiculous. I don’t want to be fashionable; I want to be admired for my style…Sartorial and customized style! Never caught wearing? Short white socks! Most underrated item in menswear/womenswear? The socks! Dress to impress who? Nobody…myself! Shine your own shoes? Not often! Shoetrees? Round Favorite stores? Milan- Antonia Uomo Riccione- Nick & Sons Arezzo- Sugar Tokyo- United Arrows Paris- Old England & L'Éclaireur NY- Bergdorf Goodman Your next "must have" purchase? Custom made sandals from Island of Capri I skimp when buying ... T-Shirts Favorite item of clothing Shoes Guilty pleasure Shoes and bags Cologne, skincare? Cologne: Black Tie by Washington Tremlett 10 Capri by Carthusia Caron Pour Homme by Caron Skincare: Nickel for Men – Manhattan/West Village NY The Art of Shaving - NY Most stylish city? Paris, NY and Tokyo When I was high school I wore? Uniform…It was a Private Catholic School Sports? Equitation Favorite fashion magazine? L'UOMO VOGUE, POSH Favorite vacation spot? Island of Capri – Campania Island of Salina -Sicily Favorite neighborhood restaurant? Milan: Finger’s – Via Gerolamo Emiliani Osteria La Voliera – Via Crema Monday, 12 May 2008Style Profile...Julie Ragolia   Julie Ragolia Job? Fashion Director, CITY Magazine. Co-curator, Playground Best Sartorial advice from your parents? Always double check that your buttons are lined up correctly before leaving the house Style Icons? Bob Dylan, Alain Delon, Karl Lagerfeld Describe your personal style? Proper school marm meets early Rolling Stones I build my daily look around... The song usually stuck in my head when I wake up. Personal Style quirks? As much as I shop, I don’t like when my clothes feel too new Most cherished item? A Chanel black high-collared cropped jacket with extra-wide sleeves. It’s perfectly elegant, but made of nylon so can just as easily crumple into a purse. Genius. I feel best wearing? My vintage boy’s tuxedo jacket. It’s as if it was perfectly tailored for my body. The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist’s outfit ... Proportion and color scheme Never caught wearing? The season’s identifiable “it” item. I prefer understated designer luxury Dress to impress who? Myself. Admirers can only come after that. Shine your own shoes? Nope Shoetrees? No Favorite stores? Zero Maria Cornejo, IF, Martin Margiela Your next "must have" purchase? Martin Margiela padded shoulder blazer I skimp when buying ... Jeans – Cheap Mondays are my favorites I splurge on..... Shoes Favorite item of clothing? The perfect white t-shirt Guilty pleasure? Felt hats Cologne, skincare? La Labo, La Mer When I was high school I wore? A mix of everything: I was preppy, Goth, grunge and hip-hop at once Sports? Yoga On the Street.... Headbands, West Village Headbands...what a tough accessory. When they are right, they are really right and when they are wrong you're Loverboy. To me, the headband makes this whole look, makes it more slinky. New Store....Leffot, Manhattan     Leffot is a Sartorialist footwear dream. It has been a long time since I have been this excited about a new store in NYC. Leffot is a perfect example of a store that not only carries great brands but offers a great edit of those brands. Labels include - Corthay Church's Gaziano & Girling Artioli Edward Green Aubercy JM Weston Address - Leffot 10 Christopher St. NY, NY 10014 T 212.989.4577 W www.Leffot.com Thursday, 8 May 2008On the Street...Cuffed Shorts, South of France I have been seeing cuffed shorts slowly popping up on cool guys around the world. This is one of the first examples ,that I have seen, where it looked so normal and not too fashiony. I hate when my shorts flare out at the bottom and cuffing them is a good trick but it is one of those funny things about menswear - either you're a shorts cuffer or you're not. I will have to give this careful consideration as summer is quickly approaching. While I'm at it I will also ponder the pro's and con's of cuffing versus rolling my shorts. If You Are In Indianapolis Tonight...
I will be speaking about my work at the Indianapolis Museum of Art at 7pm.
How Very "To Catch A Thief" I saw this display in Paul Stuart on Tuesday and thought it was one of the best tied bandannas I had ever seen. It instantly reminded me of Cary Grant in "To Catch A Thief" when he is wearing that navy striped knit. I love how neatly the ends are finished so that they are barely visible. Whenever i have tried to tie a bandanna like this I end up looking like a euro tourist or Roy Rogers. I asked them to show me how they did this knot. It is actually a simple double knot but it is all about execution of the knot. I was practicing it on my flight to Indy yesterday and found that it is easier if you leave one side a little longer when you do the first knot. For me personally I would not wear the bandanna quite so close to my neck. Instead, this summer I see myself tying it a little looser, wearing it with a casual linen shirt and (in heat of Milan) dipping it in some water to keep me chillin' (for older Sartorialist - "chillin'" being the modern vernacular for maintaining a reasonable cool body temperature) Wednesday, 7 May 2008Tuesday, 6 May 2008
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